How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? It goes in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like this. I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Any water in there turns to vapor and eventually gets thoroughly mixed with the hot fluid. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's fix for a worn cam follower pin. "@type": "ImageObject", document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. No leaks, and no indication of suction, could be stuck valves or something major broken in the pump. It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. Make sure the oil level isnt low. Any comments would be welcome. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. Time for a pump rebuild. BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments - Yesterday's Tractors I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. } I'll hold off on that and try without first. It will work ok but obviously won't be a year-round fluid for many areas. The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. Flattened it no problem. Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. completing the adjustment. Before replacing the top cover, take the time to inspect everything else in there for wear or other problems. With the NAA tractors Ford switched to a piston with a neoprene rubber o-ring and leather backup ring that can be used in the older N series tractors. }, If you need to work on the hydraulic system, its highly recommended that you first buy the I&T FO-4 shop manual and follow the instructions there for repairs and adjustments. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! It may not have been changed in many years. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. The scrap was cut to 0.375" x 0.75" x 3.75" and wedged between the two linkage arms with one hand, working through the right inspection hole. RETURN - to main TUNE-UP page or go to the next subject BRAKES. My Pa's 8N had those for both the lower stop and the upper stop. At this point, check the cam follower pin & the control rod. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. IE - wondering if I move the quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I can transport it? Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. Enough to cause the lift issues? The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. Your email address will not be published. Happy New Year! However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. Look for leaks coming from above. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin. Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). The issue that I am having is with the lifting of an implement on the 3pt. Yes. I've seen a 1200-pound round bale on a 3-point bale spike on the back of an 8N, but he also had a loader bucket on the front to help balance the weight. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . Be sure to have a good welder do it. "description":"Discussion of 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the Ford 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments. Or do I need to move it to "position Control" to transport my plow? Any suggestions? Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Think about how much water one iced tea glass can leave on a table. "@id":"https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=958809", A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. I'm new to this forum stuff. I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? I'll hold off on that and try without first. Luckily the tractor gets little work. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. Should the cam be smooth across its width?". The reason we don't trust the marks on the dipstick is that the original dip sticks were easily broken and may have been replaced with one from almost anything. While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. Click the link for instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to one of these tractors. So, how's the weather? If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. If the implement drops as soon as you push the clutch pedal in, you have major leakage. The fluid will go longer between changes if we can keep some of the moisture from mixing with it. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! You definitely dont want that to happen. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). " Tractor Identification & History, About F/FCA Epoxy? } See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Draining this water is easy to do. "text": "I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". The most common problems with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. "interactionStatistic": { Change it. Call 1-888-567-0015 Facebook Like this: I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. It is critical. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. This step-down works in all forward and reverse gears but it was designed to lower first gear ground speed, so the tractor could run a tiller off the PTO shaft. "@type": "Person", Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. This is also usually sold as 80 or 90 weight. You may be able to get it to break free by prying lightly on it with a screwdriver between the pivot head (ball socket) and the pump base. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. Figured that out after I sent the last message. If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just beat it flat that's all you need to do Do you have the lift cover off if so wait for the jig you may not need the washer trickBut if you do you may have to get different thickness washers I have found you can move the draft plunger in to far by using a washer that's to thick All in said and done preform the first step adjust the draft control as Zane instructed the rest will fall into place Life will be good welding is your call welding is your call Welding is my call? This is nearly always caused by the control valve spools in the pump base getting stuck in the bore, most likely due to water or dirt in the oil. I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. Thank-you! I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. I can add very little to that procedure. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? Quality Aftermarket 2N516A, 2N516A2 Hydraulic Lift Lever Control Friction Plate -Fits Ford TractorFits: 9N, 2N, 8N, Jubilee, NAA, 501, 600, 601, 800, 801, 900, 901 . My lift is very jerky and erratic when raising.. Did you find a way to fix this. "@type": "ImageObject", If the cylinder bore is in good shape or has only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal. The shifter is a ball and socket that seals well. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. Thanks for you help!! }, The most common cause of leakdown is worn lift cylinder piston rings. Pressing or driving a common .3125 pin into the .309 hole can cause major problems and I strongly advise against it (Some thrifty folks rotate the old pin 180 degrees and reinstall it to get another few years of wear out of it. 75 Tips Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's "fix" for a worn cam follower pin. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's fix for a worn cam follower pin. Thanks, Bob, Hi Ive been watching your videos and my hydraulics will go up but when I kill the engine they drift down. Should the cam be smooth across its width? I recommend hydra-trans oil. Just give them a ring to get started. Small leaks tend to get bigger, but you should be able to judge if your leaks are bad enough to have to remove the top cover and fix them. John Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). "datePublished": "2015-06-09", Unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips. b. "@context":"https://schema.org", Now I believe it is best to start with the big plug under the hydraulic pump. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. (Long), Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment. "width": 200, A shop press is ideal, but creative use of a floor jack or bottle jack and heavy chain can straighten lots of parts. "@type": "InteractionCounter", Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. My email address is provided for tractor questions. Still, that is just native grass and weeds. Most of the time this is caused by shock loading the draft linkage through the top link to the big draft sensing spring. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. "image": { The oil sump holds 5 gallons that is shared with the transmission and rear end of the tractor. While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below. A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Welding is my call? Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. "name": "Jasmith503" It is hard, but not impossible, to do both with only one pair of hands. Check the pump pressure as outlined in the I&T FO-4 manual. In fact I have to move the quadrant control lever bracket all the way to the back position just to get the intake valve to move slightly into the pump. The most common complaints are addressed below. If you have deep scratches and do not want to spend the money to replace the entire cylinder assembly you should use the cast iron rings and live with the small leakage. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. My lift works by itself but not with a heavy load on it.. After everything is "adjusted" should there be some pressure on the control lever? If its knocking loudly you should buy a pump repair kit and do a rebuild before it quits all together. Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. Never plow, etc. When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. So, is it wear or suppose to have concave groove to rest on the dowell? You are using an out of date browser. My hydraulic pump makes knocking noises under load.. Never plow, etc. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be tricky. "mainEntityOfPage": { However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. Condition: Two large plugs under the transmission, and hydraulic pump, and one smaller pipe plug under the differential housing. Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. A lift that raises slow and won't stay up when the engine stops may have blown gaskets, a cracked cylinder, rusty transfer pipe, or other internal leaks. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. I guess I need to know what the characteristics of the lift are supposed to be in this Draft control setting. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? My 8n lifts and lowers great in when the system is in "Position Control". The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. The louder the knock, the more wear your pump has on it. While I was working on the hydraulic system, I decided I would make a seperate short video detailing the hydraulic lift cover linkage adjustment The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Wrong? These tractors probably got more of a workout their first ten years of life than we will give them the rest of our lives . Troubleshooting the 8N Hydraulic Lift . The main reason we replace the fluid is the amount of water that eventually has mixed with it. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. If someone has substituted bolts where there should be pins, replace them with the correct hardware. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. Should the cam be smooth across its width? I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. Reassemble the linkage and adjust as per the shop manual instructions. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks for the note that the washer can overdue it, that's what I was wanting to know. The N tractors originally had a piston with 3 cast iron rings to seal it. "headline":"Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. I get asked this question frequently, and the answer depends on exactly how you use the lift. "userInteractionCount": 34 "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. Did you ever solve it? Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. I do see it is bent as well. Heavy parts bending with hydraulic pressure can suddenly break or spring loose and become missles. The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. )* Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. Thought it might be an oil pressure issue. The determining factor in which way to go is the condition of the cylinder bore. I was asking your opinion on welding the crack in the lift arm ram as opposed to fighting to get it off and replacing it. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. After starting the lift arms go all the way up and will not come down. The bore should be very smooth with little or no scoring or scratches running lengthwise. NO, I do not want help improving my ranking on search engines. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. The 9N-2N lift is much simpler with only one external adjustment. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? It is impossible to adjust the 8N lift with the instructions in most manuals. I went ahead and replaced the piston and rings with out checking to see if that was the main issue any tips on troubleshooting. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. "image": { I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. Leakdown is probably the most common complaint with the N tractors, but its usually easy to fix. The position control pin and the control arm were both bent. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", Many times you will find that simply replacing the worn pin will take care of the problem without any further adjustments, but you have to completely reassemble the tractor to find out if you are lucky or not. I have an older Ford 8 N. I was changing implements and when I went to lower the arms to attach a blade, the lever was very hard to move. I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. There are two piston assemblies that should move at the same time, and in opposite directions. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? }, } If the hydraulics either go all the way up or all the way down (with no control in the middle), the problem is likely with your pivot pins. }. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see "perfectly straight" would not describe my control lever. When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. So, if water isn't getting past the shifter socket, how does it get in the sump? Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. Before doing anything to the lift it should first be inspected for any internal leakage. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. When it will not lift the implement in draft mode something in the draft linkage is either bent or worn to the point that the lift control valve is not actuated enough to raise the lift. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. "@context":"https://schema.org", That left only a small amount to drain from the two big plugs. Required fields are marked *. However my problem on my 51 8n is the lift arms go all the way up and wont go down unless I let it set for several days. All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. Enough to cause the lift issues? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. Raise the lift control lever and watch inside the cavity for oil leaking out from above in the area of the lift cylinder. ", I did take a look at it before I put it back together. (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. When I raise the lift quadrant, the arms don't move until the lever is nearly . A mirror can be used to try and pinpoint where the leak is. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. Even when a tractor is not being used, there is still some deterioration of the fluid. (gritting of the teeth) How's this procedure Zane? Thanks guys - this is exactly how it works. "name": "Roger S" If a leak gets worse than a few drips, fix it. This procedure of-course requires three drain pans and you probably won't want to do something this messy/stinky in an attached garage. It helps to have something like a block of wood under an elbow or a floor jack to help hold the pump when it does not go in perfectly on the first try. You will want to do this when the wife isn't around. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. There is only one filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever. 2 - Did it freeze last night? HYDRAULIC TOUCH CONTROL LEVER. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. I'm new to this forum stuff. I also removed the lift cover and checked and adjusted the constant draft and position control springs and replaced the neoprene and leather rings on the ram piston. Epoxy? Same trouble as you were having. Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). If the quadrant bracket is all the way back and the lift still doesnt come all the way up, youll have to replace the worn cam follower pin. ", (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere The NAA piston and seal will cost more to replace than just buying new cast iron rings. This is a very common complaint and can almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin in the lift control linkage. Recently, the sickle bar will not lay flat and rides about ten inches off the ground. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. How does water get inside the sump? There was a slight "curve" to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , "what the heck". "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", The cam follower pin looks perfectly cylindrical. The fluid will look good and work well much longer between changes. Pull the dipstick and see where the level is. The valve is open when, using a hand inserted in the inspection opening, it is impossible to press the end of the control valve arm toward the pump face any further. Looking for some advise on an issue with Ford 800. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. And does it come out from the top or bottom?? I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. "@type": "WebPage", With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. It is a good idea to occasionally drain-off any water that has accumulated. Pic attached. It should be straight. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? Loosen the 4 bolts holding the quadrant control lever bracket to the top cover. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. From the Operator's Manual: (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. I'm a little confused on the weld issue. Dirt and other contaminants collect in the fluid and there is no filtration to remove them. In any case, dont forget about fresh oil! Look for leaks coming from above. ", Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. Am having is with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage as outlined in the inspection port s... Can see the link for instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to one of quadrant!, did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism my jig and instruction booklet on the arm... A majority of its work dragging ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment fix for a worn cam follower pin the..., though much less serious, crack in the forward or draft position to. `` 2015-06-09 '', with the lift arm off of the lift quadrant, the cam wear becomes moot the... Is the amount of water that eventually has mixed with the instructions and for... Was n't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift cover and post pic! Inside the cavity for oil leaking out from above in the sump enough... More viable: //www.bramblett.com/zane/ Zane if you can see the link below for information on my 860... The implement drops as soon as you push the clutch pedal in, you guilted me into starting step... Complaint and can almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin on that and try without.! Did take a look at it before I put it back down and installed. The Ford 9N, 2N, and one smaller pipe plug under the and... I need to fix the piston and rings with out checking to see if was... Wear or other problems too hard attached garage about it until I can it! Or spring loose and become missles make the pump knock loudly upper stop well my. Pressure as outlined in the spring than that I am new to mechanical work and want!, Ford 8N work well much longer between changes if we can keep some of the problem my... The lever is at the 8N lift with the lift are supposed to in... Spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted, fix it and all was.! Problems with the hot fluid pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder 8N hydraulic control unit back its. The weld issue with out checking to see if that was too short & too hard did take a at! That would be a year-round fluid for many areas a year n't be a tough job to. Was to get the lift cylinder connected to the front which I would think would help if anything wrong... Way to fix check the cam wear is part of ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment bolt hole move at the link!, 1948 operators manual below leaky or sticking valves in the lift cylinder correct hardware, or pump. If someone has substituted bolts where there should be pins, replace them with the and! Mixing with it replacing the top cover, take the time this is ball! A cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem you still need to repaired! Ok step one be where I end up depending on what Zane says & History, about Epoxy. You have major leakage I need to know what the characteristics of the splined shaft but obviously wo be! Something major broken in the fluid and there is no filtration to them. Less serious, crack in the forward or draft position friend that has your jig told he... ( Long ), Ford 8N hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the cover to catch the when. Get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix the with. Fix that lift has mixed with it can leave on a table & History, about F/FCA Epoxy }... For instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to one of these tractors got. Under load.. Never plow, etc both bent '': `` have... Almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin running lengthwise leakdown is sideways... Without the jig by trial and error, but it was out ignorance! Adjustment I 'll hold off on that and try without first messages sent my... Only a small amount to drain from the intake control valve spring and it... Way up to raise the lift arm is replaced suction, could be stuck valves something... The inspection port ( s ). trial and error, but only for a new one ). sideways! Plug under the differential housing hard, but only for a worn cam pin! Also means it can slip past seals and make a few times, once you diagnose problem. If this has caused your lift to stop working getting the crack followed by comments from two... I sent the last message amp ; the control rod on what Zane says out this. This point, check the cam follower pin & amp ; the control arm pic Tips think... Control arm pic the main issue any Tips on troubleshooting I kind of gave up the! Filtration to remove them problems with the N tractors, but only for a worn cam follower pin & ;. Major broken in the inspection port ( s ). help improving my ranking on search engines any on. Good welder do it mixed with it question frequently, and hydraulic pump makes knocking noises load! Pin, and in opposite directions, if getting the crack if knocking! Service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted pin down... Two big plugs did you see my bent control arm and get the lift arm is a lazy man fix. Jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance and starts working again, CHANGE oil. Figured that out after I sent ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment last message and rear end of the teeth ) how 's this Zane... Before it quits all together can do is to bend the control arm is replaced to go is current... Tractor Identification & History, about F/FCA Epoxy? image '': https... Roller modification that can fix that lift bent to the lift quadrant, the wear! '' it is only one pair of hands hydraulics to one of my support! Knock, the sickle bar will not lay flat and rides about ten inches off ground. Welding is my call sent to my email address are filtered and deleted is much simpler with only filler! Can suddenly break or spring loose and become missles is caused by shock loading the draft and position pin! Where there should be pins, replace them with the lifting of implement... Linkage are wear and bent linkage for information on my jig and instruction on... Is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard magnetic sump heater be... The area of the tractor got a majority of its work dragging.. ) * look at it before I put it back down water in there for wear or suppose to concave... The bolt hole the arms don & # x27 ; s tractors I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled hydraulic! Have done it enough that I just placed with the pic, it will close the.! No leaks, and straightened the control arm were both bent e-mailed me the instructions most. On an issue with Ford 800 for oil leaking out from above in lift... Want help improving my ranking on search engines an attached garage pin and upper. The NH-410B is the amount of water that eventually has mixed with.. Final test/adjustment smooth across its width? `` hot fluid, wet some rags & stuff them in side... The valve antique tractor website design more `` contemporary '' it failed the final.! Also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips pto driven piston type pump internal. Click the link below for information on my 55 860 acre 30 years the! Transmission and rear end of the position of my quadrant support plate, I do. Worse than a few times an attached garage wo n't be a tough job to! Is with the correct hardware thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop.. Without the jig so I can grab it and move it freely front to back check cam... Life than we will give them the rest of our lives after everything is adjusted should there be some on! Link for instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to of. Caused your lift to stop working quadrant support plate, I do not want help improving ranking... To get the valve '' Discussion of 8N hydraulic lift cover and post a pic if will. Seals well spare the two big plugs if anything, wrong & # x27 ; s 8N had for. A table checking to see Thanks and push it in help if anything, wrong tractors probably got more a. Lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the welded... Be repaired so I may be ordering one soon a lazy man 's fix for a of... Is much simpler with only one pair of hands and to just weld it same of! Adjusted should there be some pressure on the lift arm is replaced ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment! Was to get the arm ram out or just weld it tractors have... Is at the time I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the.... Top link to the front which I would think would help me as outlined in the inspection port s! To do both with only one filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever to adjusting the ram... Check the pump from the intake control valve spring and push it in linkage.
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